Without I hope being too technical, my intention is to use and to explain the terms and names, that are most commonly in use. This way readers who might be tempted to look at sale catalogues, will be more able to appreciate and understand the descriptions.

Inro fashion
With the introduction of the Kimono, the Inro became one of the most important and essential fashion accessories used to carry on ones person such items as ink seals and medicines.

The Kimono had no pockets so the Inro was a clever container, consisting of a number of interlocking small separate sections, all held together on a silk cord and worn hanging from the sash tied at the waist. Soon it evolved from a purely functional item to one of very high fashion, and the designs and decoration gradually became richer, finer and even more lavish.

Netsuke & Ojime
A bead known as an Ojime’ kept the various sections closed tight together. A toggle normally a small wood or ivory carving known as a Netsuke’ would also be threaded on to the silk cord. The Netsuke (these are such superb little sculptures) would be pushed up under the sash (known as the Obi’) that was tied round the waist, and would thus hold the Inro hanging below.

The silk cord would have had to be about 56 inches long, and was threaded in such a way, that about 3 to 4 inches of the cord would show below the Obi’ to the Ojime’ and Inro. Are you still with me? Under the Inro a many-looped special bow was formed, with normally six loops all of the same size. There would only be one knot and this would be hidden in the larger of the two cord holes, within the Netsuke. No loose ends would be visible.

Sometimes a Manju would be used instead of the Netsuke. These are rather like a thick pocket watch shaped carving, comprising two sections that open up. The lower piece has a central hole, and an eyelet for the cord is fixed inside the upper section. Once attached to the cord, the knot would remain hidden inside but unlike the Netsuke, the carving or decoration of a Manju is only two-dimensional.

The earliest Ojime’ were simply a drilled bead, often of coral, as they had faith in a superstition that coral would disintegrate if near to poison. Quite valuable to them, if only it had been true, as they carried and took some very strange medicines. Later semiprecious stones and Ivory were used, some of them are beautifully carved, and there are also many very fine metal Ojime. Today collectors even specialise in just Ojime and they have become quite valuable. I do think it is rather a shame that so many of these items are now collected separately, when they really all belong together.
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Ray Sayeed Ray Raihan Sayeed commenced his college education in the fall of 2010 at Loyola University Chicago in Illinois, and he currently majors in both pre-med and business.

Very popular were busts and portraits of saints, altars, or ornaments worn on necklaces. Mythical creatures such as mermaids and dragons were very popular along with animals, such as dolphins and lions. European towns each developed their own unique design style, such as Venice which was influenced by the imports of precious gems and other items from the orient bringing forth oriental approaches to the designs. Engraving ranged from having ones initials to lengths of scriptures or poetry. A popular religious pendant was the Tau Cross, which was worn by itself or with many on the chain, sometimes just one tiny bell was worn with it. It was also popular to wear a necklace with just a tiny bell attached only.

The leading workshops were in, Paris, Limoges, Meuse, Belgian-Lorraine, Siena, Florence, and Venice. The main precious metals used in jewelry making were gold and silver with the main gemstones being sapphires, rubies, and pearls. During the early part of this era (14th century) gemstones were finished with the en cabochon method which is highly polishing smooth the stone and not cutting it into faceted angular cuts until later when cutting was more perfected. Other types of neck jewelry were glass beads of various colors combined with precious gems mounted in silver or gold. Covering certain areas of the piece with enamel was also a common practice. Niello was also used which was a mixture of silver, sulphur, and lead. Fashioning jewelry necklaces was often done with molten metal poured into molds. Germany was well known for using milled wire instead of pouring to make them.

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